Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife & Fish Refuge
IntroductionThe upper reaches of America’s mighty Mississippi River have seen many changes since their exploration by French missionaries and traders. Cities and towns now occupy the sites of historic Indian villages and trading posts. Modern highways have replaced the ancient trails along the riverbanks. Legions of small watercraft, yachts, and ponderous barges travel the waterways. A lock and dam system maintains a 9-foot navigation channel. Yet the visitor viewing the great valley from the bluffs today still notes much of the Upper Mississippi’s wilderness beauty as the early explorers saw it. The great cliffs still loom above the river. A carpet of woodlands shrouds the cities and other evidences of man’s presence. Fish and wildlife still abound in many places, and the Father of Waters continues to roll ever southward to the Gulf of Mexico.
The Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife
and Fish Refuge was established by Act of Congress on June 7, 1924. Original acreages for the project were acquired
through purchases, donation, and by withdrawal from the public domain. The area was later enlarged by additional
land acquisitions of the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers for navigational
improvements. These additional tracts
are managed as a part of the refuge.
Today the Upper Mississippi Refuge consists of about 200,000 acres of
wooded islands, waters, and marshes extending more than 260 miles southward
along the river bottoms from Wabasha, Minnesota, to nearly Rock Island,
Illinois. The river bottoms forming the
refuge are from 2 to 5 miles wide. This
great river refuge demonstrates man’s ability to preserve scenic, recreational,
and wildlife resources amidst the needs of modern civilization.
The Upper Mississippi Refuge is unique among wildlife conservation areas. Its boundaries are the longest of any refuge in the lower 48 states, for it extends hundreds of miles along the river in four states – Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa, and Illinois. Containing differing life zones and climactic conditions, some 270 species of birds, 57 species of mammals, 45 species of amphibians and reptiles, and 113 species of fish are found here. Eleven dams and locks within the refuge boundaries form a series of pools that vary from 10 to 30 miles long. The dams have raised water levers, creating a maze of channels, sloughs, marshlands, and open lakes over the bottomlands. Excellent stands of aquatic plants have developed, creating habitat for waterfowl and other wildlife.
The Upper Mississippi Valley is a major migration
route for birds. Among the more
spectacular seasonal flights are those of the waterfowl. Thousands of tundra swans stop at favorite
resting areas during the Spring flight.
Large numbers of canvasbacks use the refuge, especially during Fall
migration. At times, up to 75% of the
canvasback continental population may be seen on Pools 7 and 8 (between Genoa
and Trempealeau, Wisconsin) alone.
Other diving ducks – principally lesser scaup, ringnecks, redheads,
buffleheads, and ruddies – gather on open pools above the dams. Mallards, wigeon, gadwall, teal, and other
surface-feeding species are found in the shallow backwaters along the
riverbanks. The Mississippi River bottoms
are favorite haunts of the wood duck (Fig. 3).
Thousands of these brilliantly marked birds feed in the protected
sloughs and shallows and nest in the hollow trees along the islands and
bluffs.
The bald eagle, our national emblem, nests
and winters in numbers on the Upper Mississippi Refuge. These majestic birds concentrate below the
dams or near the mouths of tributaries where fish provide a ready food
supply. Spectacular migrations of other
birds are noted during spring and fall when hordes of warblers, vireos,
thrushes, and sparrows drift through the trees and shrubs of the river islands
and bluffs. Whip-poor-wills and
pileated woodpeckers call in the remote woodland areas.
The refuge bottomlands harbor myriads of marsh and water birds such as herons, egrets, bitterns, and rails. Many large rookeries may be observed in more remote reaches where hundreds of great blue herons and egrets raise their young.
Major furbearers along the Mississippi include muskrat, mink, beaver (Fig. 4), otter, raccoon, skunk, weasel, and fox. A few nutria have appeared in recent years. Other mammals include gray and fox squirrels, cottontails, jackrabbits, and white-tailed deer, which are abundant in the timbered areas, plus about 40 smaller non-game animals.
The Upper Mississippi Refuge offers unsurpassed opportunities for sightseeing, outdoor recreation, and nature study. It accommodates some 3 million visitors annually for such activities as wildlife observation, environmental education, boating, fishing, hunting, bird study, and sightseeing.
The river valley is rich in historical lore. Traces of ancient mound-building tribes are found along the bluffs and bottomlands. Signs and markers point out the sites of old Indian battlegrounds, villages, forts, trading posts, and the routes of early explorers. Black Hawk, the famous Sac and Fox chief, fought here. Names like Marquette and Dubuque recall early French settlement and influence in the valley.

The McGregor District of the Upper Mississippi Refuge was established in 1924. The District’s jurisdiction stretches for 97 miles along the river, including 78,441 acres around Navigation Pools 9, 10 and 11. The District serves about 910,000 visitors annually. The McGregor office (Fig. 5) is located just a few miles north of the park and about 1 mile north of McGregor, Iowa, on Highway 18. It also houses a Visitor Contact Station with displays and written information. To contact the office:
U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service
Upper Mississippi Refuge
McGregor District Office
P.O. Box 460
McGregor, IA 52157
Phone: (319) 873-3423
Fax: (319) 873-3803
Additional information about the Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife & Fish Refuge can be obtained at any of their offices, including the Refuge Headquarters in Winona, Minnesota, or district offices in Winona, LaCrosse, Wisconsin; Savanna, Illinois, or at McGregor.
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* Figures 2, 3, and 6 modified from U.S.G.S. Photo Archive.
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Figure 6. The Walleye is a favorite Mississippi River game fish *. Stizostedion vitreum
vitreum
_____________________________________________ from Anderson, R.R. (ed.), 2000, The Natural History of Pikes Peak State Park, Clayton County, Iowa: Geological Society of Iowa Guidebook 70, p. 1.
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